Things You'll Need
4 sheets of 1/2-inch plywood, each 60 inches-by-40 inches
8 beams, 2 inches by 4 inches by 8 inches
8 beams, 2 inches by 4 inches by 27 inches
4 posts, 6 inches by 6 inches by 72 inches
2 strips, 6 inches by 1 inch by 80 inches
24 bolts, 7 inches long
24 nuts and watchers compatible with the bolts
Box of 3-inch wood screws
You can modify almost any existing plan for smaller bunk beds to create a queen size bunk set. When doing so, be sure to include that center support line running lengthwise down the mattress. Otherwise the frame will sag and may begin to break.
A queen size bunk bed is a truly unorthodox piece of furniture but can be a great addition to anyplace where sleeping conditions are crowded, such as a college dorm or vacation home. This bunk bed project will be similar to those for smaller mattresses, except you'll need to pay special attention to supporting the middle of the mattress. These plans are for a very basic design using inexpensive materials, but you can convert them easily by adding extras or swapping for more expensive lumber.
Drill four holes each of the 80-inch beams using a drill bit the same diameter as your bolts. Place two holes on center at each end of the beam, 2 3/4 inches and 3 1/2 inches from the end, respectively.
Set two 80-inch beams (one with drilled holes and one without) and two 27-inch beams in a rectangle with the longer beams on the outside. Screw the rectangle together with two screws at each corner.
Repeat Steps 1 and 2 three times to build a total of four rectangles.
Set two rectangles together so they form a larger rectangle the size of a queen mattress (60 inches by 80 inches). Connect them by running bolts through the drilled holes in the two beams touching each other in the center.
Set two plywood sheets over the rectangle so the edges are flush with those of the rectangle. Screw them in place with a screw at each corner.
Reinforce the plywood with two evenly-spaced screws along each edge.
Flip the mattress frame over. Place one of the 80-inch strips so it runs along the two center beams, covering them both.
Screw the strip in place with 12 evenly spaced screws, staggering placement so every other screw is in a different beam. This will help prevent sagging at the center of your frame.
Repeat Steps 4 through 8 to build the second mattress frame.
Drill four holes in each of the posts using the same bit you did for your other drilling. Drill two sets of holes, in a line perpendicular to the length of the posts, 2 3/4 inches and 3 1/2 inches from the edge. Place one set of holes a foot from one end of the post and one set a foot from the other end.
Move all pieces of the bed to the room where you intend to set up the bed. After this stage, moving the whole thing will be a real hassle.
Set up your four posts approximately where they will be when the bed is done. The drilled holes should run perpendicular to the wall you'll lay the long side of the bed against.
Move one platform into position between the posts. Use a crescent wrench to bolt it into place at the lower set of holes drilled in the posts. This step is much easier with two or more assistants to hold the platform in place as you insert the bolts.
Set the second platform on top of the first. Hoist it up to the level of the second set of holes and bolt it in place. For most people this step is impossible without assistants.
Jason Brick has written professionally since 1994. His work has appeared in numerous venues including "Hand Held Crime" and "Black Belt Magazine." He has completed hundreds of technical and business articles, and came to full-time writing after a long career teaching martial arts. Brick received a Bachelor of Arts in psychology from the University of Oregon.