During its manufacturing history, Wayne Dalton offered more than a dozen residential garage door garage openers, each of which fell under the ProDrive and Classic Drive series. These devices -- identified by four- or five-digit model numbers that start with 30, 32, 33, 34 or 35 -- have their fair share of specific operational quirks and variations, but they also have plenty of commonalities. If your Wayne-Dalton opener is on the fritz, try some troubleshooting that applies to virtually all Wayne Dalton devices before seeking additional help.
As is the case with troubleshooting almost any garage door opener, you'll want to start with the basics. If the opener doesn't respond to input from your transmitting device (remote or wall-mounted control), ensure that the opener is plugged in and check and replace the batteries in the transmitter or wall control. If the opener doesn't respond at all, try resetting your circuit breaker for a potentially easy fix.
When faced with faulty wireless remotes, ensure that the transmitter is programmed for compatibility with the opener. Individual programming codes are available in the transmitter's user manual.
If you've opened and closed your door repeatedly within a short period of time and the opener has stopped working, simply give the opener about 10 to 15 minutes of rest -- it has likely shut down automatically to prevent overheating.
When the opener's light flashes and the door doesn't open, check the garage door for any obstructions -- including snow or ice built up at ground level or around the borders of the door -- and remove them. If that doesn't do the trick, increase the opening force by turning the dial on the right side of the opener.
Flashing lights and a door that only travels for about a second before returning to the fully open position indicate sensor issues. Ensure that no obstructions block the sensors located on each side of your garage door, mounted to the track or wall near the floor. If the problem persists when the sensors are unobstructed, adjust their positions; you may have to unscrew and re-position the safety sensor mounting brackets, which should always be mounted at exactly the same height and as close to the door track or inside edge of the door as possible. The sensors are properly aligned when their red LED lights glow solidly.
For doors that open, but not all the way, tweak the opener's travel adjustment dials -- located on the bottom of the unit -- using a screwdriver. One-quarter turn in the marked directions of "More" or "Less" open makes for about 1 inch of additional travel or reduced travel.
Finally, a door arm that's poorly adjusted may cause the garage door to open right after you've closed it. Take a look at the pins securing each door arm. If you make a straight line from the pin to the bottom corner, the imaginary line and the rear line of the door arm should from a 10- to 30-degree angle. You can adjust the door arm's position along the track by removing the hairpin-like cotter pin and the solid metal pin. Replace both pins after you've readjusted the arm.
Calling in the Pros
Some ProDrive and Classic Drive issues result from mechanical problems that go a bit beyond everyday troubleshooting. For instance, a door that starts to open but then reverses direction may indicate faulty wiring, while a running motor with no door movement is often a sign of a bad chain or belt sprocket coupling. Likewise, a stuttering door is a symptom of broken teeth on the drive gear. If battery replacement or reprogramming doesn't put your transmitter back on track, your opener's motor control board may have failed. Consult a local garage door repair service for recommendations and repair pricing; you might decide that it's a better investment to simply replace the opener.