Laminate Flooring On Stairs: Considerations & Installation

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Avid DIYers can install laminate flooring on stairs, but it's often best to hire a professional.
Image Credit: Paul Anderson

Installing laminate flooring is for the most part a DIY-friendly project, but when it comes to stairs, you might want to consider having the job done by a pro if you don't have confidence in your carpentry skills. Improper installation can result in a dangerous situation with the potential to cause a serious accident. Besides that, the quality of the work is crucial because stairs are more visible than the rest of the floor.


Despite this disclaimer, you shouldn't feel that you can't do the job yourself because you can as long as you're OK with the fact that the job is going to be slightly more complicated than installing the rest of the floor. It involves proper preparation of the stairs as well as installation of the laminate flooring, a riser on each step that can support the stair nose and the appropriate laminate stair nosing that matches the flooring and doesn't create a tripping hazard.

An Overview of the Process

With no structural value of its own, laminate flooring is basically just a covering for existing wood or plywood stairs that are in good condition and free of rot or mold. Stair treads are 11 inches deep, but a laminate plank is usually only about 7 inches wide, so you need to fit two planks together, which means creating a seam in the middle of the tread. You may want to avoid this, and if so, you can buy one-piece laminate stair treads from most laminate dealers.

Laminate treads must be glued down with construction adhesive.

After cutting the treads to fit, you have to glue them down with construction adhesive, which means that you can't install an underlayment. After gluing, you can either nail the planks to the steps with a nail gun or by hand or you can screw them. Either way, you need to fill the holes with a floor putty that matches the color of the laminate stair treads.

The risers go on next. The International Building Code specifies a maximum riser height of 7 inches, so a single laminate plank usually suffices, but you may prefer to use pine, poplar or some other stainable wood instead. The riser must come flush with the surface of the tread, and the stair nose, which goes on last, curls around the top of the riser and either fits flush against the laminate on the tread or overlaps it.


What You'll Need to Buy

Unless you opt for single-piece treads, you'll need enough extra laminate flooring to cover all the steps. If your staircase is 36-inches wide, the surface area of each tread is 2.75 square feet, and if the staircase is 24-inches wide, each tread has an area of 1.83 square feet. Multiply the square footage of each tread by the number of steps and add 10 percent as a waste overage.

Stair nose comes in 72-inch lengths, so if your stairs are 36-inches wide, one length should be enough for two steps, but if the steps are another width, for example 30 inches, you might have to buy more nosing than you actually need because you can't use partial pieces. It's best to buy the nosing when you buy the flooring to be sure their colors and styles are compatible. When it comes to the risers, you'll need 1.75 square feet for each 36-inch step and 1.2 square feet for each 24-inch one, assuming the height of each step is 7 inches.

The glue you need for this project is the type of construction adhesive that comes in caulk tubes, such as Liquid Nails or a similar product — contact cement or wood glue won't do. You can also purchase flat-head screws or trim screws, or you can opt for barbed finish nails, which you should shoot with a nail gun so you don't risk damaging the treads with a hammer. Fill nail and screw holes with epoxy wood filler because it doesn't chip out as easily as conventional latex or solvent-based fillers.

Preparing for Laminate Stair Installation

You can install laminate flooring on wood or plywood stairs but not on concrete because you can't drive nails or screws into concrete. The wood must be completely flat and level, so you may have to do some sanding to prepare it. If you removed carpeting or some other tread material, all the staples, tack strip and old adhesive must be gone before you install laminate stair treads.


Laminate stairs can add warmth and mimic hardwood.

If there's an overhang on the existing treads, you have two options. You can either cut off the overhang using a circular saw or jigsaw, or you can select a riser material with the same thickness as the depth of the overhang. Either way, the tread should have a clean 90-degree angle on the edge with no overhang to accommodate the stair nose.

Remove any existing baseboard trim or molding material that's in your way. If you want this molding to be there, it's best to reinstall it after you've finished installing the laminate. At the top of the stairs, cut back the wall baseboard to allow room for the nosing.

How to Install Laminate Stairs

The components you need to install on each step include the riser, the tread and the nosing. Professional installers prefer to start at the bottom of the staircase and finish each step before moving on to the next one. This ensures the risers rest on top of the treads, which makes for a cleaner overall appearance.

Things You'll Need

  • Construction adhesive

  • Screws or nails

  • Tape measure

  • Circular saw

  • 80-tooth blade

  • Caulk gun

Step 1: Measure and Cut the Bottom Riser

Use a tape measure to get accurate measurements of the existing riser. If the step is old and not quite straight, be sure to get measurements of the height at both ends because they may be slightly different. Transfer those measurements to the riser material and cut the riser with a circular saw. If you're using laminate for the riser, ensure a clean cut by cutting from the back using a blade with at least 80 teeth.

Step 2: Install the Bottom Riser

Spread a generous amount of construction adhesive on the back of the riser with a caulk gun and set it in place. Drive a screw or nail into each corner to secure it and then drive one or two more fasteners along the top and bottom edges. Don't drive any fasteners into the middle of the riser where they will be visible.


Step 3: Measure and Cut the Tread for the Step Above

Once again, you need accurate measurements because the existing step may not be completely square. Check the corners with a set square, and if they aren't 90 degrees, use an adjustable bevel to measure the exact angle and transfer the measurements to the plank you're cutting.

When you need two planks to span the depth of the step, the one in front must be a full plank because you need both the tongue and groove sides intact to connect to the adjacent plank and the nosing. Measure the depth of the step, subtract the gap you need for the nosing, which depends on the type of nosing you're using, and rip-cut the rear plank to the proper width.

Step 4: Dry-Fit the Tread and the Nosing

Set the tread in place, snapping the planks together if you're using two of them. Cut the nosing to the proper length and set it in place on the edge of the step, either overlapping the tread or snapping onto it depending on the nosing. Make sure everything fits and then remove the tread and nosing for gluing.

Step 5: Glue and Fasten the Tread

Spread glue liberally on the back of the tread, starting with the rear one if you're using two planks. Set the treads in place and snap them together and then press down to seat the adhesive. Drive fasteners in the four corners of each plank and along the back edge of the rear one where they will be covered by the riser.

Step 6: Install the Stair Nose

Some types of nosing are the same width as a laminate plank so they can sit directly on the subfloor and snap into the tread. Others require installation of a strip of shim material upon which they sit so they can overlap the tread. If you're using nosing that requires a shim, glue the shim in place first and then apply glue to the back of the nosing, set it in place and drive three or four fasteners about an inch from the edge of the tread.

When using nosing that overlaps the tread, do not drive fasteners into the tread. It needs to be decoupled from the nosing so it can expand and contract independently.


White risers make a visually interesting offset for laminate stairs.

Tips to Keep in Mind

If you install flooring on the landing before you do the stairs, be sure to leave a gap for nosing that is compatible with the flooring. If you haven't installed the flooring on the landing yet, go ahead and install the bullnose molding when you reach the top of the stairs so you can butt the flooring up to it. The nosing can be compatible with laminate flooring if that's what you're installing on the landing, but it doesn't have to be.

Professionals tend to avoid using quarter-round trim to cover gaps, preferring instead to minimize the gaps by making accurate measurements and cuts. You may prefer to install quarter-round to hide mistakes, however, and sometimes the use of corner trim is inevitable, such as when the stairway is open on one side. You don't have to glue this trim — just fasten it with finish nails.

If you have to cut notches in the laminate flooring to fit around an obstruction, do the job with a jigsaw using a blade with a minimum tooth count of 14 teeth per inch. To further reduce the risk of chipping the delicate laminate surface, lay masking tape along the cut line and cut through the tape.



Chris Deziel is a contractor, builder and general fix-it pro who has been active in the construction trades for 40 years. He has degrees in science and humanities and years of teaching experience. An avid craftsman and musician, Deziel began writing on home improvement topics in 2010. He worked as an expert consultant with eHow Now and Pro Referral -- a Home Depot site. A DIYer by nature, Deziel regularly shares tips and tricks for a better home and garden at

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