Whitewashing stained wood softens and lightens the base color of the furniture, creating a unique-to-you finish instead of the classic sheer white of painted bare wood. Before you start, , so the whitewash adheres. This has no effect on the stain, but it ensures your end-finish is durable and even. Use one of two ways to whitewash wood: Apply a liming wax or diluted latex paint. No matter which method you choose, the resulting color will be a softer, lighter version of the original stain.
Prepping the Furniture
Hand-sand the furniture with 220-grit sandpaper to remove any residue left behind by the stripper and smooth out the finish. Don't attempt to make the wood feel like silk – a slightly uneven texture complements whitewash. Wipe everything down with a tack cloth or damp towel. If you plan to use liming wax, first brush the wood with a bronze brush to open up the pores, so the wax can penetrate the surface.
Most wood species respond well to liming wax or diluted paint for whitewashing, so you can choose any kind, but some require special care. Pine, cedar, redwood and fir, even when stained, tend to absorb liming wax and diluted paint unevenly. After sanding and prior to whitewashing, apply a wood conditioner according to the manufacturer's directions. Another issue is seeping sap and residue, common with outdoor furniture made from cypress. Wipe the furniture down with mineral spirits just before whitewashing.
Whitewashing: Wax or Paint
In the past, whitewashing was done with lime, chalk and water; liming, a mix of just lime and water, was also used. But because lime is caustic, take advantage of modern, safer options: Liming wax or diluted latex paint.
This modern alternative to a classic whitewashing solution gives an authentic look and feel, and it works best for furniture such as dressers, buffet tables and bookcases. Although the results provide a solid, stunning finish, waxes aren't ideal for well-used tables and chairs or anything used outdoors.
Fold a piece of cheesecloth or a lint-free cloth over several times. Scoop some liming wax and work it into the furniture using circular motions and going with the grain of the wood. Your goal is to work the wax deep into the wood, not just apply it to the surface. The wax blends easily, so you don't have to worry about delineation between areas.
Remove any excess wax with ultra-fine steel wool, buffing with the grain of the wood. Don't use a lot of pressure – just skim the surface until the finish is even.
Wait the amount of time recommended by the liming wax manufacturer and then as a protective topcoat. Apply at least two coats, buffing off excess between coats with ultra-fine steel wool.
Diluted Paint or Primer
This relatively easy whitewashing technique is perfect for furniture that gets a lot of traffic. If you're finishing outdoor furniture, use exterior, water-based paint and polyurethane.
Dilute white latex paint with equal parts water in a plastic container, stirring well to combine. Opt for distilled water if possible.
Brush the whitewashing solution on the furniture using long, even strokes, starting with just one horizontal or vertical surface; i.e., the face of one drawer or the top of a table. Immediately wipe off the excess with a damp sponge.
Keep repeating this process, moving from section to section, until everything is covered. Let this dry and apply another coat if desired.
Apply two to three coats of matte or satin polyurethane. For an ultra-smooth finish, lightly sand with 320-grit sandpaper between each coat, wiping off the dust before applying the next.