Eliminating an old, outdated sliding glass door to create more wall space as part of a home remodeling project can transform a room's ambiance and functionality. Whether your project is completely designed or waiting for the options that a solid wall offers, the simple procedure to fill in the wall opening is easy to complete for any standard patio door and conventional framing.
Remove the sliding glass door panels from the frame. For both door panels, lower the door rollers by backing out the roller adjustment screws located at the base edges of the door. With the rollers retracted, lift the door panels upward to free the bottom from the track, and then lower the panel to remove the top edge from the door frame.
Remove all interior and exterior trim, as applicable, from around the perimeter of the sliding glass door frame. For wood exterior trim, use a hammer and pry bar to detach the trim from the siding. For homes with a stucco exterior wall finish, the stucco will need to be cut approximately 2 inches from the frame around the perimeter using a circular saw mounted with a masonry blade to expose the nailing flange of the frame.
Remove the screws from the frame's sill using a screwdriver.
Remove all of the nails from the nailing flange around the exterior perimeter of the door frame using a hammer and pry bar.
Tilt the frame outward from the top to remove the door frame from the wall opening.
Measure the width of the wall opening at the floor surface.
Cut two pieces of 2-by-4 framing lumber to the measurement determined in Step 6. These will be the horizontal plates for the fill-in wall framing.
Align the two plates, face to face and on edge, with the ends flush. Hook the end of a measuring tape on one end of the two plates, and make a pencil mark at 15 1/4 inches. Use a hand square to extend the line across both edges of the plates. This will be the first wall stud position and the starting point of the remaining stud layout.
Measure from the starting layout line marked in Step 8, and mark every 16-inch increment over the remainder of the plates, squaring each mark across both plates.
Measure the height of the wall opening, from the floor surface to the bottom surface of the door header.
Cut a length of 2-by-4 lumber to the dimension determined in Step 10 minus 3 inches for each of the layout lines marked. These will be the wall studs for the fill-in framing. Cut two additional wall studs to be installed at each end of the wall.
Separate the two plate pieces, and position them parallel and spaced apart to fit the wall studs cut in Step 11 between them.
Attach the wall studs to the plates at both ends. Align the wall studs beside the layout lines marked on both plates. Make certain the edges of both are flush, and secure the studs to the plates using two 16d sinker nails through the plate into the stud at each end.
Install one additional stud at each end of the wall section to complete the fill-in section.
Position the bottom plate of the fill-in wall next to the door opening, and then stand the wall upright and insert it into the opening. Shift the wall studs on both ends to align flush with the existing wall framing, and secure the wall with 16d sinker nails. Nail the wall studs in place at both side and the plates into the floor and header, as needed.
Apply the interior and exterior wall finishes to match the existing wall surfaces, as appropriate. The wall stud spaces should be insulated using standard fiberglass insulation before the wall finishes are installed.