Laminated shower walls differ from molded shower enclosures. Each wall is a separate piece. Laminated sheets can't be bent to fit corners or edges, so individual pieces are cut to fit each wall.
Laminate is tough, easy to work with and water-resistant, but you can't install it directly on drywall. You'll install medium-density fiberboard (MDF) before you place the laminate. With laminate sheeting, you can customize with a variety of textures, patterns, colors and designs widely available on the home improvement market.
Step 1: Shut Off the Water
Turn off the water to the shower.
Step 2: Remove Shelves, Fixtures and Trim
Remove knobs or any superficial shelves or fixtures. Pry off and remove any trim or moldings using a pry bar.
Step 3: Measure Fixture-Bearing Wall
Measure the wall that bears the fixtures. Subtract 1/8 inch from the width and height. Install a 60-tooth carbide-tipped ATB blade on a table saw.
Step 4: Cut the MDF
Put on safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask and cut 3/8-inch MDF particleboard to the dimension you arrived at, using the table saw. Subtracting 1/8 inch from the wall's width and height prevents the MDF from binding during installation.
Step 5: Cut Fixture Holes in MDF
Take the measurements for fixtures. Use an appropriate-size hole saw and drill/driver to cut holes in the MDF for the fixtures.
Step 6: Install MDF Panels
Apply panel adhesive to the MDF panel. Press the MDF panel in place, fitting it over the fixtures. Measure an adjacent wall, subtract 1/8 inch, cut, glue and place panels on this wall the same way you did the fixture wall. Then repeat on the remaining walls.
Step 7: Cut Laminate Sheets
Install an 80-tooth, TCG laminate-cutting blade on the table saw. Cut the first laminate sheet for the wall with the faucets with the table saw. Cut all sheets 1/8 inch less than the measurement for the width to prevent them from binding during installation.
Step 8: Cut Fixture Holes in Laminate
Measure and cut the holes in the laminate for the fixtures using a hole saw. Place the laminate on a flat surface. Slip a piece of scrap wood under it to serve as backing to drill the holes. Turn the laminate upside down.
Step 9: Dry-Fit the Laminate
Dry-fit the laminate on the wall to ensure it's the right size. Trim if needed and dry-fit again. Repeat as necessary.
Step 10: Install Laminate Over Fixtures
Brush a coat of contact cement on the back of the laminate and the wall using a brush. When the contact cement is dry to the touch, press the laminate in place, starting at the bottom and gently bending it as needed to fit over the fixtures as you work upward to the top. Bump the surface of the laminate randomly with a rubber mallet to bond it to the MDF.
Step 11: Install Laminate on Adjoining Walls
Cut the laminate for the adjoining walls one piece at a time. Repeat dry-fitting, gluing and placing each successive piece.
Step 12: Apply Silicone Sealant to Seams
Apply a bead of color-matched silicone to one seam or joint at a time. Smooth the bead into the corner with a wet fingertip. Add silicone everywhere the laminate terminates against a wall or the ceiling, all the way around the perimeter.
Specializing in hardwood furniture, trim carpentry, cabinets, home improvement and architectural millwork, Wade Shaddy has worked in homebuilding since 1972. Shaddy has also worked as a newspaper reporter and writer, and as a contributing writer for Bicycling Magazine. Shaddy began publishing in various magazines in 1992, and published a novel, “Dark Canyon,” in 2008.