Things You'll Need
Clean, lint-free shop cloths
Rubber squeegee, 4-to-5-inches wide
Utility knife plus extra blades
Gila application solution
Edging tool or wallpaper trimming guide
Clean your Gila filmed windows with Gila application solution or glass cleaner and a squeegee. Wipe them down with a clean cloth to dry them.
Do not let ammonia-based cleaner sit on Gila film for more than one to two minutes.
Large windows provide an unobstructed view, as well as letting in plenty of sunlight. As with all good things, you can sometimes have too much. If you can see out, chances are that people can see in, and you can have times where you are flooded with too much sunlight. A simple solution is Gila window film. Durable, attractive and simple to put on, tinted window films like Gila cut down on glare, increase privacy, and provide extra insulation. Applying Gila film is best done with a helper, and must always be done on the inside of the glass.
Preparing the Window
Clean the outside of the window thoroughly by spraying a generous amount of glass cleaner over the entire window.
Scrub the glass with a clean, lint-free shop cloth. Add more glass cleaner as necessary, and pay special attention to the edges and corners of the window.
Scrape off any stubborn dirt, tree sap, dead bugs or any other debris with a razor blade.
Wet down the window with clear water. Hold the squeegee blade at a 45-degree angle to the window and drag it down the glass, scraping off all of the water as you go. Wipe the squeegee blade with a clean shop cloth and repeat until the outside of the window is completely clean.
Repeat Steps 1 through 4 on the inside of the window. Make sure to dry the bottom weather strip and window sill with a shop cloth.
Preparing the Gila Film
Measure the width and height of your window.
Lay the Gila film out on a flat, clean surface. Measure out from one edge of the film, and cut a piece that is at least 1 inch larger than your measurement on the three other sides. Use the utility knife and straight edge to cut out the film.
Attach two strips of clear tape about 3 to 4 inches long to one corner of the film. Put one of them on the side of the film that is facing up, and one on the side facing down. Press the tape firmly to the film on each side, and then quickly pull the pieces of tape apart from each other. This will separate the clear lining from the Gila film.
Leave the liner on the film with the tape pieces attached, for now.
Wet the film thoroughly with the Gila application solution. Do one side, flip it over--a helper is useful here--and do the other side.
Applying Gila Film to the Window
Wet the window thoroughly with the Gila application solution. Soak it really well.
Pull the tape apart to separate the clear lining from the Gila film. Have your helper hold the film flat as you peel the liner away, spraying the newly exposed side of the Gila film with the Gila application solution as you go. Do not let the exposed liner fold back on itself, or it will stick.
Align the factory edge of the adhesive side of the film--the side you peeled the liner from--with either the top or one side of the window. Smooth the rest of the film carefully onto the window glass, using your hands to press it flat.
Spray the film thoroughly with the Gila application solution. Set the squeegee at the top center of the window, with the blade held vertically. Slowly drag the squeegee to the right, smoothing out any air bubbles or wrinkles. Stop 2 inches before you get to the edge.
Repeat Step 4, working out from the center to the left.
Trim away the excess film at the three edges of the window, leaving a one-sixteenth of an inch gap between the edge of the film and the window frame. Cut a one-sixteenth of an inch strip away from the factory edge on the fourth side. Glass expands and shrinks in different temperatures, so this gap is necessary.
Re-wet the film with the application solution, and squeegee out any air bubbles. Work from the center to the right, and then from the center to the left. Use a clean, lint-free cloth to absorb any pockets of water.
Let the film cure from seven to 10 days. It may appear cloudy or hazy as it cures; this is normal.
Brynne Chandler built her first bookcase at eight years old, which is also right around the time she started writing. An avid crafter, decorator and do-it-yourselfer, Brynne has remodeled several homes including one cantilevered on a cliff and one that belonged to Olympic swimmer and actor Buster Crabbe. Best known for her EMMY-nominated TV animation writing, she has been writing non-fiction content for almost a decade and has been featured in the San Francisco Chronicle and the Houston Chronicle online, among other places.