Electric ovens consume more electricity than most other home appliances, so wiring an outlet for one is slightly more complicated. Instead of a standard 110-volt receptacle, you need a 220-volt one that is rated for 50 or 60 amps, depending on your stove. Moreover, because the circuit is 220 volts, the receptacle must be controlled by a pair of circuit breakers in the main panel, and the breakers and receptacle connected with heavier electrical cable than you would use for a 110-volt receptacle. The cable must also include an extra hot wire to supply the voltage the stove needs.
Choose a convenient place for the outlet behind the stove and screw a single-gang electrical box to a wall stud at that location so that the front of the box is flush with the wall covering. If the wall behind the oven is covered with drywall, cut a hole with a drywall saw and patch it after you have installed the outlet.
Run a length of 8/3 electrical cable between the oven and the main electrical panel. The number "8" refers to the wire gauge and "3" to the number of conductors. Because the electrical code requires the circuit to be grounded, the cable actually includes four wires. The ground wire, which isn't included in the number of conductors, is usually bare, but it may be covered with green insulation.
Feed one end of the cable through the back of the electrical box and pull through enough to make connections, usually about 6 inches. Strip 4 inches of sheathing from the end with a utility knife, separate the wires and expose 1/2 inch on the end of each insulated wire with the knife.
Crimp an 8-gauge ring lug to the end of each wire with a pair of pliers. The lugs will make it easier to connect the wires to the receptacle and will make the connections more secure.
Remove the two brass terminal screws from the back of a 240-volt, 50- or 60-amp receptacle with a screwdriver. If you're not sure which receptacle to use, check the amperage rating on the stove. It is designated on a metal plate near the point where the plug connects to the stove, and purchase a receptacle rated for that amperage. It will have the same pin configuration as the stove plug.
Feed the brass screws through the lugs on the black and red wires in the cable and screw them back to the receptacle. Both wires are hot and are interchangeable, so it doesn't matter to which screw you attach either one.
Remove the silver screw, feed it through the lug on the white wire, and replace it. Connect the ground wire to the green screw in the same way. When you're done, push the wires into the electrical box and screw the receptacle to the front with the screws that came with it.
Turn off the main breaker in the electrical panel, unscrew the cover and remove it. Feed the other end of the cable though an existing hole in the side or bottom that has room for it and pull out enough to make connections.
Strip sheathing from the cable, separate the wires and strip 1/2 inch of insulation from each one. Loosen an available lug on the silver bus bar with a screwdriver, feed in the white wire and tighten the lug. Attach the ground wire to the ground bus in the same way.
Connect the hot wires to a double-gang circuit breaker. The rating of the breakers must match the amperage rating of the stove. Feed the red wire into the lug on one breaker and tighten the lug, then connect the black wire to the other breaker in the same way. Snap the pair of breakers into an available slot on the front of the panel.
Replace the panel cover, turn on the main breaker, then turn on the stove breakers. If the stove breakers trip, look for a loose connection at the receptacle.