Speed Queen, a division of Alliance Laundry Systems, is an American appliance manufacturer that offers numerous laundry solutions for residential and commercial customers. The bearing inside the transmission assembly helps the inner basket spin properly. When the bearing starts to wear out, the inner basket may have trouble spinning or emit a terrible noise when it does. You can change the bearing in a Speed Queen washer, although the process is so long and arduous that you may prefer to involve a professional.
Disconnect the Speed Queen washer from its electrical source while changing the bearings. Unplug the machine from the wall outlet or remove the corresponding fuse from your fuse box. Locate the hot and cold water supply valves on the wall behind the washer; close the valves by rotating them all the way clockwise.
Remove the two screws from the bottom flange of the front panel. The type of screws varies by washer model. Pull the bottom of the panel toward you to disengage the retaining clips on the top flange. Set aside the removed front washer panel. Remove the two screws securing the top panel to the front corners of the washer cabinet. Lift the cabinet top, and fold it backward to rest against the wall.
Locate the plastic tub ring attached to the top of the inner basket and outer tub assemblies. Slide the tip of a flat-head screwdriver under one of the locking tabs on the perimeter of the tub ring. Lift the screwdriver to release the tab. Repeat the process to release the tabs all the way around the outside of the ring. Remove the plastic tub ring, and set it aside.
Slip two agitator hooks under the bottom edge of the agitator assembly. Tug the hooks upward and rock the agitator assembly back and forth to separate it from the drive bell. Use two flat-head screwdrivers or putty knives if you don't have the special agitator hooks. Lift the assembly out of the washer tub, and set it aside.
Pry the O-ring from the top of the drive bell, and remove the bell mounting screw. Loosen the bolt on the top of the drive bell tool. Back the bolt three-quarters of the way out of the tool. Line up the jaw indents with the slots on the drive bell, and place the tool on top of the bell. Tighten the bolt on the top of the tool. Slide the tool's jaw lips under the bottom edge of the drive bell, and tighten both side wing nuts. Turn the large nut on the top of the drive bell tool counterclockwise, using an adjustable wrench. Loosen the bolt at the top of the tool, and pull straight up to detach the drive bell.
Turn the hub nut counterclockwise to remove it. Take out the bolts and washers securing the basket to the center hub. There may be four or eight bolts, depending on the model. Lift the inner basket out of the outer tub, and set it aside.
Remove the bolts holding the center hub to the outer tub. The number of bolts varies by model. Pull the hub from the outer tub, and remove the water seal beneath it.
Detach the pressure switch and drain hoses from the outside of the outer tub. Release the clamps, and pull the hoses off of the tub ports. Unhook the front suspension springs, and lift the outer tub assembly out of the washer cabinet. Turn the assembly upside-down, and place it on a padded surface.
Take out the screws and washers holding the support legs to the outer tub assembly. Lift the pivot dome, brake assembly and bearing housing off the transmission shaft.
Support the sides of the bearing housing. Force the bearing out of the center of the housing. Tap the bearing from the housing with a rubber mallet and brass drift punch, if necessary. Clean the bearing housing with fine-grit sandpaper to remove any grimy build-up.
Apply a light coating of retaining compound to the outside of the replacement bearing. Press the new bearing into its housing.