Concrete block garages are stronger and more durable than wood framed or steel garages. They can hold up beams. These garages are insect and rodent proof. They rarely fall down or leak in a storm. Because concrete blocks are thick, the garage is more sound proof than other types and can withstand the pressure of a blast or a fire. Constructing a block garage takes more man power--and costs considerably more money--than conventional framing, but the pros far outweigh the cons.
Layout your area for the garage by placing stakes in the corners. Dig out all the dirt within the area 6 inches deep. Place 2-by-6 form boards around the perimeter.
Nail the boards at the corners and place stakes behind them every 3 feet for support. Nail the stakes to the form boards with double headed nails so they are easily removed when you are finished.
Dig out your footings 1 foot wide by 18 inches deep around the perimeter. A footing is the structural part of the slab that bares the weight load of the structure above.
Place two 1/2 inch rebar horizontally all the way around the bottom of the footings, making sure the rebar is at least 3 inches away from the earth by placing a 3-inch by 3-inch dobie block every 3 feet underneath the rebar. Rebar is a structural steel rod manufactured to be placed in concrete to add strength. Rebar can be purchased at most hardware stores. Dobie blocks are small concrete blocks with tie wire built into them to space rebar a given distance above the earth.
Run a length of two 1/2 inch rebar also on the top of the footings, keeping the rebar 3 inches away from earth and air.
Attach 1/2 inch rebar rods vertically every 16 inches around the footings 4-inches in from the outside edge.
Tie them into the top and bottom of your horizontal rebar with tie wires. Tie wire is a spool of wire made to tie rebar together.